Head to Sardinia for Vermentino and More – Cantina Murales

Sardinian Vermentino wines deserve much more recognition. Not only because the grape makes outstanding dry whites, but also the winemaking history in Gallura; it dates back to the Nuragic period (1400 – 1200 BC). Vermentino, however, was likely introduced to Sardinia from Spain between the 15^th and 18^th centuries. It quickly found a home on the northeastern corner of the island whether planted at sea level or on mountain slopes. In fact, it performs best on the island’s granitic, sandy soils, where we recently met up with friends to help celebrate their anniversary.

Sardinia (Sardegna in Italian) is not a volcanic island as one might think, but a huge granite rock slab in the Mediterranean Ocean. It sits about knee level on the Italian boot – see the red below.

Circling back to Vermentino, I posit it’s the grape you need to taste!

In fact, if you like Sauvignon Blanc, you may also like Vermentino. While it doesn’t contain quite as high acidity (Sauvignon Blanc reigns higher when grown in cooler climates), it is dry and fresh with the same citrusy and light herbal characteristics.

Lovers of unoaked Chardonnay may also be interested to taste it; they both can have aromas and flavors of green apple and again, that glorious acidity that I liken to drinking a chilled glass of lemonade.

Depending on where the grape is grown, resulting wines display other characteristics too.

Where You Find Vermentino

• United States in very small amounts in Napa and Sonoma counties, Lodi and the Sierra Foothills of California, in North Carolina, and in Virginia.
• Small amounts in Australia, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa.
• South of France: Provence, the Languedoc, Roussillon, Cahors (at Combel La Serre winery), and Corsica where it’s the number one white grape [1].

But you find the largest quantities in Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany in Italy. It especially shines on Sardinia where it grows in several areas, with the Gallura zone in the far northeast corner of the island the most notable.

Searching For a Sardinian Winery

Our friends chose the northeast corner of the island for their celebration, thus that is where I happily searched, knowing the Island’s only D.O.C.G. (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) is located there: Vermentino di Gallura. It requires at least 95% Vermentino.

Vermentino di Gallura encompasses many wine styles: younger, superiore (more complex), spumante (sparkling), vendemmia tardiva (late harvest), and passito (sweeter). They range from delicate floral, citrus, green melon and apple aromas with sprightly acid, to deeper expressions with green herby hints, and most always almond undertones. They pair with happy hour, vegetables, seafood, chicken, and pork (and probably more) all year long.

Interesting to note, according to Karen MacNeil in the 3rd edition of her book The Wine Bible, about 75% of all the Vermentino grown in Italy resides on Sardinia.

After wading through what seemed like more touristy wineries, I settled on the small producer, Cantina Murales. What especially attracted me was their devotion to no chemical use, using various biodynamic principles, having a huge organic garden, and what you don’t often hear of at a winery, a small animal rescue sanctuary.

Learning About Cantina Murales

Greeted by Greta Canopoli, she guided us on a property tour. She is one of the owner’s three daughters: each play significant roles working in most areas of the family business.

Cantina Murales is based in Olbia in Piliezzu, Gallura where Northern Italian career changers Piero Canopoli and his wife, Giuliana Dalla Longa purchased land and established the winery in 2007. They work with, in order of most to least planted grapevines Cannonau, Vermentino, Caricagiola, Viognier, Malvasia Nera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carignano (Carignan), and Girò.

These choices are the result of Piero’s scientific, researcher mind (like my husband Mark!). That’s what led him to establish an experimental vineyard of sorts on their property. So intrigued by his choice of grapes and what he has done, we asked many questions. For example, regarding the grape varieties planted, do specific characteristics stand out with each that make it better suited for your site? He shared the following:

“The observation of the acclimatization of native grape varieties such as Vermentino, Cannonau, and Carignano in the granite soil with high mineral vocation, in a stable field (i.e., the soil was not plowed before planting, and we leave it grassy with only the intervention of geese for cleaning and fertilization) has shown that after some years of difficulty, the acclimatization is complete. I have noticed a great adaptation to the different seasonal variations each year, both in flowering and veraison. The weight of the berries depends on the rainfall, as we tend not to irrigate.” 

And, regarding adaptation to climate change, what characteristics he looks for in a variety?  He shared, “It is impossible to respond until there is climate stability. For now, we work and adapt to nature with the aim of having balanced grapes.”

He went on to share he finds Vermentino and Carignano are best at withstanding warmer temperatures, while Cannonau needs interpretation, and one must not get the harvest timing wrong. Viognier ripens early, but generally, all varieties he has show excellent heat resistance. 

Finally, we loved his Viognier and wondered what made him want to plant this grape in his Gallura vineyard. It is not He shared “I was driven by the knowledge of both the grape variety and the Côte du Rhône, which has a mineral formation very similar to ours, although not as structural”.

Viognier lovers out there, this Sardinian example is worthy of a sip!

Sipping Sardinia

The first wine we tasted on our arrival evening was a delightful sparkling rosé. I snapped a quick photo of the label to remember it. Then, at Cantina Murales, the first wine poured was this very wine – Kariasa Vino Spumante Rosado, Extra Brut. This one hundred percent Carignano (Carignan in France) at just 11% abv (alcohol by volume), was once again like smelling an aromatic bowl of red berries drizzled lightly with lemon juice and dusted with sea breeze.

Just to note, Extra Brut Italian wines are lowest in sugar:

• Extra Brut – driest 0-6g/l
• Brut – less than 12g
• Extra Dry – 12-17 g/l.

We tasted many of their wines then honed in on this: Lumenera 2023, a Vermentino di Gallura DOCG wine.

Here, Piero desired to make a different style of Vermentino thus changed up his winemaking. After two days of maceration on the skins, it ferments in tonneau (older barrels) then ages in cement for a year with daily bâtonage (lees, or dead yeast stirring). The cement imparts no flavors, while lees stirring softens the mouthfeel of this high acid grape. In essence, an Amber (also called Orange) Wine here. Soft around the edges with yummy acidity that lifts the moderate weight … just fun!

And his Viognier (pictured below) called Sentenzia. He bottles it under the island wide Isola dei Nuraghi Bianco IGT (Indicazione Geographica Tipica) because Viognier is not an authorized grape under any Sardinian DOC.

Finally, after tasting, we strolled to where their rescued animals reside. Most are extremely friendly and love interacting with people like this donkey, a long time resident.

A relaxing and tasty afternoon is in store if you visit Cantina Murales. They serve home-made nibbles to accompany wine tastings on their patio with a garden view. If you get to this northeast corner of Sardinia, do not miss them … a lovely a visit!

UPDATE! The winery shared they can ship six bottles minimum to the United States. You need to contact them via email to do so at muralesvini@gmail.com