Smoked salmon is popular here with a large variety to draw one’s interest. Mine was piqued to find a new dish that would be enjoyable with a Pouilly-Fuissé. I’d picked one up at my favorite, around-the-corner wine store where I’m now able to address Monsieur by “tu” versus “vous”.
Pouilly-Fuissé is made from the chardonnay grape in Burgundy’s most southerly subregion, the Mâconnaise. It typically displays aromas of white peach, pineapple, yellow citrus notes, honeysuckle and herbs. These wines are not oaky, buttery things, not at all. And, depending whether from the northerly or southerly areas of the Mâconnaise, they can be rich and distinguished, or crisp and minerally.
My “what to enjoy with this wine” hunt uncovered a article about California winemaker Merry Edwards. I knew of her, however, not how in-depth her research, work, and contributions to the wine world have been over the last 40 years. Truly an amazing woman who in addition to doing a million things, developed recipes to go with her wine.
Wild mushrooms are available here now for a short time (a little later than usual I hear), especially the “cépe” (porcini), and also the chanterelle. They are very popular and people flock to purchase them. A stand of wild mushrooms at the market I frequent was completely gone in two hours. If you blink, you’ll miss out.
- 3 tablespoons fresh olive oil
- 2 medium leeks, trimmed of the green portion, halved, and thinly sliced (about 2 ½ to 3 cups)
- 4 green onions, thinly sliced
- 1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced into pieces about 1” long
- 5 oz (150g) wild mushrooms (porcini, chanterelles, or other fungi)*
- 3 large cloves garlic, diced
- ½ cup (120ml) dry white wine
- 1 ½ cups (350ml) seafood broth (or chicken)
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped (or 1 heaping teaspoon dried)
- 6 (or so) ounces (100g) smoked salmon, skin removed, broken into pieces
- 1 cup (240ml) crème fraiche
- ¾ lb (about 300g) pappardelle pasta (or angel hair)
- Grated parmigiano reggiano
- 2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
- Have a covered pot of salted water warming on the stove for your pasta.
- In a large skillet over medium / medium-high heat, sauté leeks, green onions and fennel in olive oil until soft and lightly golden brown. Add garlic; season with salt and pepper.
- Pour in wine; reduce until liquid is nearly gone. Reduce heat to medium-low; add seafood broth and cook until liquid is reduced by a quarter; reduce heat to low. (During the reduction process, prepare pasta per package instructions.)
- In a separate sauté pan over medium high heat, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the mushrooms; toss then sauté until just soft. Add to the pan with the leeks, along with the salmon and thyme; add crème fraiche and stir to mix.
- Add the drained pasta and toss to mix. (Add slightly more warm broth if desired for more sauce.)
- Portion onto plates, top with parmigiano reggiano and a sprinkling of parsley.
- Serve with your favorite warm bread.
It might seem like a lot of leeks at first but they will cook down.
The original recipe from Merry Edwards can be found here.