Savor the Harvest: Falling for J. de Villebois Pinot Noir Rosé

The Loire is appreciated for its combination of tradition and modernity at J. de Villebois winery. Pulling grapes from both the Touraine and Sancerre areas within the Central Loire Valley, this makes the J. de Villebois Pinot Noir Rosé an IGP Loire wine. It shows what is possible with this wine style and grape in the Loire. While enjoyed during the summer, I am ‘falling this autumn’ for it again as the leaves change color and the weather cools.

• Winery Location: Central Loire, Sancerre appellation (AOC), in the small community of Verdigny
• Winery Grape Focus: Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc

Although owner Joost de Willebois is Dutch, his family immigrated from France to the Netherlands in the 19^thcentury. He moved back and started J. de Villebois in 2004. His larger company, Les Vignobles Villebois, was established in 2015 and based in Seigy in the Central Loire. There are six wineries under the company, with the most recent, Divin, producing no and low alcohol wines. #divinnolo #alcoholfree #sansalcool

About J. de Villebois

J. de Villebois is Joost de Willebois’ exploration of the quest for excellence via what the vineyard plot is trying to transmit. He and his winemaking team constantly ponder this question each vintage, then, work to let the grapes transport you via a combination of tradition and modernity.

They do this producing monocépage (100% varietal) Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Noir Rosé wines.

Winery Backstory: A brand of Les Vignobles Villebois, the website does a fantastic job discussing their story from beginning to present day. 

Disclosure: This wine was received as a media sample; my own opinion is expressed here.

The J. de Villebois Pinot Noir Rosé Experience

I did not tire of this 2023 rosé’s medium coral pink color. Nor the generous nose… intense berry aromas (cherry and raspberry), stone fruit (white peach), mild orange peel, and sweet wet soil. The first sip has a lively feel and is crisply fresh like cold mineral water, yet with a savory side. That sip revealed its red fruitiness and round yet taut texture that included mild dusty tannins.

Have you ever swallowed a wine and said to yourself “Mmm!”? Well this wine’s generous and lasting flavors, and juicy palate feel did just that! At two years old, it continues pleasing, probably thanks to that lees aging*. Overall, it was spectacular with my shrimp salad with basil leaves, crispy capers, and roasted asparagus on a recent warm autumn (fall) day.

Pros:

• Modest alcohol (just 12%), a brush of silky tannins, a fresh yet round mouthfeel (which comes from one-third of the juice going through three bâtonnage cycles (stirring of the lees) per week to bring out its smoothness. No oak used.
• Just $25 in the US (9.95€ in France).
• A true reflection of place, craft, and what is possible with Pinot Noir Rosé. It strikes a balance between fresh and modern, and rustic charm with savory complexity.

Cons:

• None!

So why IGP Loire? For this rosé, J. de Villebois choose some of their best Pinot Noir grapes from plots in two different areas within the central Loire. This qualifies it as a Val de Loire wine, or Indication Géographique Protégée – IGP. IGP wines are subject to similar, but less strict regulations as compared with appellation (AOC) wines. By the way, Val de Loire is the most important of the Loire’s five IGPs! **Scroll to the bottom to go deeper into this subject.

Final Thoughts

This is a wine that will linger in my memory as much as on my palate. At an approachable price point, it’s an excellent adventure into Loire Valley Pinot Noir rosé. It works just as well with food as on its own, and will transport you to summer in autumn. Perhaps you’ll ‘fall’ for it this autumn too?!?

Available in the US through importer Vineyard Brands. 

Instagram: @vineyardbrands @domaine_villebois

*Lees Aging – Wines aged on lees tend to be more stable because the lees, or dead yeast cells, that drop out of the juice to the bottom of the vessel at as a natural antioxidant.

** Choosing IGP – To take you a bit deeper, many wine producers in France choose to bottle under IGP because it allows them greater flexibility on yield levels and grape varieties grown, among other things. For example, some winemakers declassify a wine because the grape they planted is not allowed under the appellation in which they reside. Others choose to declassify for the freedom to let the grape(s) and terroir speak. Ridged rules apply to aspects of growing grapes and producing wine. IGP is more like American Viticultural Area (AVA) rules  –  much flexibility!

With this shared, many upsides exist to the appellation system in France where it protects quality and tradition, whereas the United States lacks the later. Madeline Puckette of Wine Folly says it beautifully. “There seem to be an infinite number of ways to classify and categorize wine these days. Though, none are quite so helpful–or quite as intimidating– as the appellation system.” Source 

If this topic is of interest, enjoy VinePair’s article Why Some Winemakers in Europe Choose to Declassify Their Wine, or Vinerra’s Appellation Systems and Wine Laws: A Provocateur’s Guide to Wine’s Great Bureaucracy.