Savoring the Harvest: Bierzo with Descendientes de J. Palacios

Say Bierzo and you pique my interest. Say Mencia and you have my attention. That recently happened at a small, specialty wine shop where the Somm in training then said Pétalos. If you enjoy trying different wines, these three words may attract your attention too, so read on. But first …

Those of you who follow me probably know I lean towards supporting smaller and medium-sized producers (wineries or producers of wine), especially those who care for the environment. I am introducing a new type of post article this week focusing on those I find around the world who to my palate, make amazing wines.

Mostly shorter articles shared a few times monthly, I call them Savoring the Harvest and today’s focus is Spain’s producer Descendientes de J. Palacios. Most will be available in the US with a link to the importer(s) and/or distributor(s). 

The Palacios Project in Bierzo

While Álvaro Palacios’ first wine project was, and still is, in the Priorat region, he and his nephew Ricardo Pérez Palacios are the men behind Descendientes de J. Palacios in D.O. (denominación de origen) Bierzo. The small region continually tickled their minds due to steep hillside vineyards, distinctive terroirs and especially, old vines of Mencia. In 1998 they partnered and set up shop on the western edge of the region. 

Looking at the region’s bigger picture, Bierzo is in the northwest of Castilla y Leon, bordering Galicia to the west and Asturias to the north. Of the grapes recognized by Bierzo’s regulatory council, the red grape Mencia makes up about 76.5% thus establishing it as the primary grape of the region. Interestingly, Palomino Fino, the primary white grape in the Sherry region makes up 10.5% with another white, Godello, at 8.8%.* (source)

Of the grapes recognized by the council, the Palacios project focuses solely on Mencia. And the wine in my glass today is no doubt Mencia, the entry-level Palacios wine called Pétalos del Bierzo; one of their most difficult wines to make due to grapes coming from many small, old vine plots on steep hillside slopes.

To me, this wine delivers anything but entry-level enjoyment!

Sipping it, the initial brightness is like the burst of freshness you get from sparkling water. Then a mixture of tangy berry fruit ripening in a bowl surrounded by violet floral. And if you ever made sand pies as a child then tasted them, this wine reminds me of that earthy mineral flavor. As an adult, I equate it to the mineral aspect I taste in sparkling (mineral) water. At any rate, that splash of first sip vibrancy rounded into a smooth, structurally balanced wine with an impressive ability to linger. Then the layers came … deep fruity richness from those berries, subtle bitter notes and a drying sensation like you would experience from black or green tea. Intense, silky and thoroughly enjoyable over two days.

I could end here yet an exciting aspect of the Palacios project is their farming. I found the following information on the Polaner Selections website:

The winery is a small part of the “complete” farm. They grow many other products, raise animals, and make many of the bio preps themselves.” (Bio preps refers to biodynamic preparations). Winemaker, Ricardo Perez, is Spain’s foremost expert on Biodynamics.  He translated Nicolas Joly’s book Wine from Sky to Earth: Growing & Appreciating Biodynamic Wine into Spanish.  

Beyond managing the entire biodynamic farm, Ricardo also hosts classes for the residents on baking bread, making cheeses, and other skills from the region that are slowly being lost by the younger generations.

Ricardo led the charge on changes to the DO of Bierzo rules getting further designations approved, village designations allowed, and many other things that will benefit the quality and communication to consumers.

In conclusion, Mencia is a less-known grape that most probably originates in Bierzo according to Jancis Robinson’s book Wine Grapes. It also grows in a few Galicia, Spain regions, Portugal (where it is called Jaen), Australia, California (Lodi), and Oregon (Columbia River). It results in a medium-bodied, berry and floral-driven wine with layers of flavors, mouthfeel and depth, depending on where it is grown and how the wine is made. All this plus approachable and food friendly. I recommend you find a bottle, or three, to taste and compare for yourself!

Pétalos del Bierzo and other Descendientes de J. Palacios Mencia wines are imported into the United States by:

Rare Wine Co.

Polaner Selections

Available in many states. See WineSearcher for stores. 

*With regard to percentages of grapes grown, there is a conflict between the Bierzo regulatory council website and their press material.

Interested to learn more about where Mencia grows in northwest Spain’s Galicia region? Here is Lori Budd’s latest on the subject.

Interested to learn more about Ávaro Palaicios? Here is a 2024 article from Jamie Goode.

And if you pass through Ashland in Southern Oregon (close to the Applegate and Rogue Valley wine areas), Good Juice is where you will find this and other eclectic wines courtesy of Somm Lin.